Jakarta Designers Try to Make Kebaya Hip Again
Jakarta. Young people who value simplicity and practicality in fashion often think of traditional costumes such as the kebaya as too old-fashioned and impractical for everyday use, but a group of designers in Jakarta are quietly trying to make the classic style hip again.
Designer Amy Atmanto and the Kebayaku (My Kebaya) association on Wednesday (07/12) held the "Pesona Kebaya Nusantara" (The Beauty of Kebaya) fashion show at Raffles Hotel in Jakarta to prove that the kebaya can be both elegant and practical for everyday use.
"We want to reintroduce the kebaya to the younger generation, they need to preserve this tradition. We're proud and more than happy to share our knowledge about the origin, history, and variations of the kebaya," Kebayaku chairwoman and founder Nunun Darajatun said.
The show was opened by the Coordinating Minister for Human Development and Cultural Affairs, Puan Maharani, who encouraged young people to find out more about the philosophy of the kebaya.
"Many young people today don't understand kebaya and have no desire to wear traditional costumes. They should know kebayas are not just clothes, there is a philosophy behind them. Kebaya symbolizes modesty, gentleness, elegance and being well-cultured. A person who wears kebaya is expected to be nurturing to others," the minister said.
The fashion show was also held to celebrate the upcoming Indonesian Mother's Day on Dec. 22, and Puan fittingly emphasized the close association between kebaya and Indonesian women in history.
"Kebaya and Indonesian women share the same characteristics: elegant and strong," Puan said.
Two separate shows were held on Wednesday, the first of which showcased Amy Atmanto's lineup of 15 chic kebaya styles for younger women. The collection, called "Rainbow Expressions", showed the variety of colors a kebaya can take.
"I like and try to create wearable kebaya using lighter fabric like chiffon. My kebayas are designed to be more casual, more suited to the active modern women," the award-winning designer said.
One of the most eye-catching pieces in Amy's collection was a short-sleeved kutu baru kebaya combined with a maxi skirt, which looked like a long gown. Characterized by a rectangular panel in the center, kutu baru is one of the oldest kebaya styles but has recently enjoyed a resurgence.
"The kutu baru, modified to be more modern and dynamic, is very happening at the moment," Amy, who also plans to launch a modest wear line called "Amy Atmanto's Abaya and Keffiah" next year, said.
For the current collection, Amy experimented with bold and pastel colors, as well as floral patterns for the kebaya tops, which are matched with traditional songket bottoms as well as modern pencil, box-pleated and draped skirts.
"To me, the kebaya represents the true identity of the Indonesian women, which should not only be preserved but also explored. It is my job as a designer to keep coming up with innovations for the kebaya," Amy said.
Amy's kebaya activism is not restricted to the runway, she also runs a women-empowerment program called Rumah Kreatif Amy Atmanto (Amy Atmanto's Creative House), which provides training in tailoring for women from poor families, many of whom graduate to make kebayas for Amy.
The fashion show also featured prominent members of the Kebayaku association, including actress Rima Melati, on the runway to show off their private kebaya collection. The show was choreographed by big-name fashion director Ari Tulang and featured musical accompaniment by singing violinist Mia Ismi.
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