East Kalimantan. East Kalimantan Province holds a wealth of natural treasures that form part of its cultural identity. One of them is a traditional textile belonging to the Dayak Benuaq tribe.

It is called Tenun Doyo, a type of ikat weaving made from the fibers of the doyo leaf, scientifically known as Curliglia latifolia. This plant, similar to pandan, has strong fibers and grows wild in the interior regions of Kalimantan, such as West Kutai Regency and parts of Kutai Kartanegara Regency.

Merry Mekez, a cultural craftswoman from the Dayak Benuaq in Kutai Kartanegara, said Tenun Doyo is an invaluable cultural heritage of the Dayak Benuaq people. According to her, Doyo weaving has existed for centuries and is often used in various traditional ceremonies in the interior regions of East Kalimantan.

“All of the unique characteristics of the Dayak have existed since the time of our ancestors. One of them is Tenun Doyo. Why? Because the Dayak always use materials derived from nature,” she said.

In general, the motifs in Doyo woven fabric are inspired by the flora and fauna found in East Kalimantan. Some motifs are also derived from Dayak mythology, such as dragons, Lembuswana (a mythical beast), or themes of ancient warfare.

“The Dayak people typically live near rivers, so many of the motifs come from flora and fauna along the Mahakam River. Some unique ones include dragons or orchids,” she noted.

According to the Indonesia Kaya website, the motifs used in Doyo weaving can also reveal the social status of the wearer. Motifs used by commoners are different from those worn by nobles or descendants of royalty. All motifs on doyo fabric are considered sacred in Dayak Benuaq folklore.

“For example, the waniq ngelukng motif, which represents a beehive, is used by commoners. Meanwhile, the jautan nguku motif, which means drifting clouds or dragons, signifies nobility or royal descent,” she explained.

Woven Traditionally by Skilled Artisans

The process of making Tenun Doyo is not simple. It involves using basic weaving tools and skilled craftsmanship.

To begin weaving, the doyo leaves must be dried. They are then sliced following the grain of the leaf to produce fine fibers. These fibers are then twisted together to form coarse threads.

These doyo threads are dyed using natural plant-based dyes. Merry explained there are two methods: one uses instant textile dyes, while the other uses traditional plant-based dyes. She said that the dyeing process affects the final quality of the doyo fabric—using more natural materials results in more beautiful outcomes.

“There are hundreds of plants used as natural dyes, including glinggam, oter wood, londo fruit, ulin, engkerebai, leban, durian, salam leaves, randu, rambutan, papaya, and many more,” she explained.

Once the threads are colored, weaving begins. Weaving skills cannot be mastered by just anyone. The art is passed down through generations in a unique way.

Dayak Benuaq women begin learning to weave during their teenage years through self-taught observation. They do not undergo formal training. Instead, they learn by repeatedly watching older women such as their mothers and elders until they master the Doyo weaving technique.

This unique learning method has led to a scarcity of Doyo fiber weavers. Merry said that only a few people, outside of Dayak Benuaq women, can master this weaving technique.

“If a Dayak Benuaq woman’s mother is a weaver, she will naturally be able to weave because of daily practice. But without this lineage, it’s difficult. Even I, a native Benuaq woman, am still not fully skilled,” she said.

Featured in Various National Events

In 2012, former Kutai Kartanegara Regent Rita Widyasari introduced Tenun Doyo to the national fashion scene in a more modern presentation at the 2012 Jakarta Fashion Week. Then in 2013, the Ministry of Education and Culture declared Ulap Doyo woven cloth as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Nadya Christy Cinta, a model from Balikpapan, also wore Tenun Doyo in a photoshoot before entering the international stage in Thailand. According to her, Tenun Doyo, once sewn into Ulap Doyo, radiates elegance and strength from the Dayak Benuaq tribe.

“Tenun Doyo is crafted by the skilled hands of Dayak Benuaq women. It is more than just a symbol of beauty. It is a cultural guardian, a storyteller of the people, and a face of the future of the archipelago,” she said.

Nadya is determined to introduce Tenun Doyo to the international stage as part of her career journey. She believes Tenun Doyo is a cultural heritage of immense value. It is a product of natural craftsmanship from East Kalimantan that must be preserved.

“Tenun Doyo is a source of pride for the people of East Kalimantan. The Dayak Benuaq tradition reminds us that being traditional does not mean being left behind—it means rising with roots that reach the world,” she concluded.